Ireland. Full of spirits and ancient influences, druid
rituals amid the stone circles and lost ghosts wandering the splintering stone
walls of ruined castles. My week-long stay in Ireland was all about stories. But
first, last summer. I was in Idaho, at a conference. A member of the Nez Perce
tribe hosted a group of us on a bus tour of his tribe’s lands, telling stories
the whole way. One was about a beautiful princess maiden frog who rejected all
the handsome green boy frogs who visited her tipi, croaking their love. Her
father reminded her that these all seemed like pretty nice guys, and it was
time to take on a husband and start raising some tadpoles. (I’m embellishing just
a touch, but these stories need to be continuously reinterpreted if they’re to
survive without turning to stone.) But the pressure was too much, and she didn’t
want to get married, so she ran away. At one point she started climbing a hill,
but started to slow down because she was turning to stone, and she ended up
turning solidly to stone. (There’s something there about what will happen to a
maiden who doesn’t get married and raise children like she’s supposed to. But
we’ll let that go for now.) This story is thousands of years old. The bus went
around a bend in the road and our storyteller guide pointed up the hillside,
saying, “And there she is!” He pointed at a big rock that looked just like a
big frog. Actually, it looked like a beautiful maiden princess frog. The point
is that the story, thousands of years old, wasn’t just floating up in some
person-to-person cultural ether of stories. It was that, but just as
importantly, this was a story embedded in the landscape. The Nez Perce people
have been telling that story for a thousand generations, and I bet most of the
times it was told, it included that same delightful moment, the finger pointing
up the hillside: “And there she is!” All the listeners had that wonderful
moment of recognition that we did on our bus tour. Thus do stories inhabit a
place. As I walk around my woods and rivers, one of the things that sometimes
saddens me is that the ancient indigenous stories about that rock, this hill,
this creek, this dark stretch of forest, this island—they’ve been lost. The
Shawnees of southern Ohio were mostly driven out and their stories went with
them. You can bet they had them. Other people and other stories have mostly
replaced them. I know a few and have generated my own, but in general Americans
are not a people who live close enough to our land to feel the stories embedded
in it. But new ones will build up, given time. For example, a friend of mine
once was in a crisis, and in a panic I took him camping in December on an
island in the Little Miami River, near Fort Ancient. I made him wade through
the painfully frigid river, which he wanted no part of but that I knew had to
be of the process. It isolated us from the rest of the world. We talked all
night, and I don’t remember exactly what I said, but his life turned that
night. Really, it wasn’t what I actually said. All he needed was a friend to
listen. In the morning, dawning crisp and wintery, we saw a great buck deer
step to the river and drink, and it was so perfect that it seemed an implausible
gift, and then we saw a hawk kill a squirrel overhead, then look down at us and
give that iconic call that red tail hawks make before flying off with the
squirrel, and again, it didn’t feel random. That night on that island is now
part of my personal story landscape. I’ve since learned that there is a burial
ground on the island, and I know this because rangers in the state park it’s
part of occasionally find the Indian peoples’ bones exposed in the bank after
the spring floods. They respectfully rebury the bones on a less vulnerable
corner of the island where they can rest in peace without the meandering river
digging them up. There was a village nearby, too, and about a mile away the
great Fort Ancient complex sits on the hillside, long abandoned, but protected
for now by the park. This is a land once deep
with stories. Most of them are lost. Some few small new ones keep coming, but
the Hopewell and Adena people had thousands of years of a head start on me and
my friend. But we’re doing our part. We love that spot, and it’s important to
both of us now. I go fishing there a lot, almost always alone, and I walk over
the island remembering what happened there, looking for bones. If the stories
attached to the place and the people buried there thousands of years ago are
lost, I’m still slowly becoming part of it as I add new stories, and my camping
there with my friend has enriched the place just a little bit more. I still
tell our story now and then, and so does he.
When I was in Ireland, a friend of my host took me on a tour
of the country outside of Dublin, mainly through County Clare. From what I understand,
he has a skill that’s in some demand. He knows how to fix the plumbing embedded
in the rock walls of Irish country cottages. It’s a special skill because
usually the plumbing is old, old, old and the walls are usually about three
feet thick. I drove with him on a circuit that stopped by five or six houses
and cottages. These were all about estimates and planning; he didn’t do any
stone-work or plumbing on this day, but he used the information he gathered to
plan the upcoming week’s work. He never
stopped talking, telling story after story. It was great fun. The stories
were about, say…well, I seem to remember one about this Medieval princess who
was supposed to marry this particular prince fellow, who had a misshapen claw
for a hand and gray, watery eyes, so that she fell disastrously in love with
someone else with normal hands and deep, handsome brown eyes, but eventually
her father’s will won the day and they built that castle—right there! Though ‘tis
said by many her daughter had lovely brown eyes herself. My host was a
normal-looking Irish dude, with plaid pants driving a French Citroen auto on
these narrow little stone-walled roads through the wintery Irish countryside
and all its warm-woolen sheep, but he was telling me stories a thousand years
old, that were embedded in this particular landscape. This happened right
there! The tree’s tops shiver with them. We stopped in a pub for a bite and
pint, and while he was in the men’s room, a girl sat at the table and started
talking to me. I believe I stood out in my foreign Americanness from the
regular local folk. But we had to go. Pale translucent skin, freckles across
her nose, and long curly red hair, I’m telling you, but I touched her hand and
got up and left. Had to. Not much of a story generated there in the end, and
there wouldn’t have been anyway, but people are people, whether in Malibu or
Country Clare, and they like to talk and attract. But as B. is feeling so
clearly, the language, and the stories generated through the language, they’re
a special part of that place. You can’t help but feel it when you’re in Ireland,
if you’re paying attention.
It was great to read this and get out of my work day for a bit.
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